Pictured above is a "one piece" inlay template(pic 5) for a round medallion. This type of template can add to
the ship cost tremendously, over 80.00 extra shipping charges for a 36" medallion not including the wood or
time to make the template! 80% of companies do not sell a round inlay with a template anymore because
of the waste of wood and simplicity of installing a round inlay. This price increase is due to the size of the
template(pic 6), not its weight. A "one piece" Inlay template is nothing more than a path guide for a router.
When using a "one piece" template the router needs a router bit with a little wheel bearing(flush cut bit).
This way the router can be pushed up tight to the template and run around the inside perimeter of the
templates shape(pic 7).
Where the circle jig relies on the nail in the center of the jig itself to guide the router, the "one piece"
template is the actual guide for the router As you lower the bit and after several passes around the inside of
the template, you will have an exact hole in the flooring for the inlay to be placed. Any mistakes made to
the inside of the template do not matter because the wood gets ripped out and the inlay takes its place.
The template itself prevents the router from moving beyond its shape so no damage can be done to the
flooring. It is a foolproof method.
There is an argument that a "one piece" template is better than the circle jig as far as getting a
precise pocket in the floor. If you feel this way just use the circle jig to make a "one piece"
template. Refer to the "Circle Jig" and "stick" template instructions for this. The benefit to the
circle jig is that the router can not(or very unlikely) jerk out of your hands while cutting the floor.
The router is fixed to the jig, which is fixed to the floor making the circle jig safer. Both methods
work, use what is best for you.
the ship cost tremendously, over 80.00 extra shipping charges for a 36" medallion not including the wood or
time to make the template! 80% of companies do not sell a round inlay with a template anymore because
of the waste of wood and simplicity of installing a round inlay. This price increase is due to the size of the
template(pic 6), not its weight. A "one piece" Inlay template is nothing more than a path guide for a router.
When using a "one piece" template the router needs a router bit with a little wheel bearing(flush cut bit).
This way the router can be pushed up tight to the template and run around the inside perimeter of the
templates shape(pic 7).
Where the circle jig relies on the nail in the center of the jig itself to guide the router, the "one piece"
template is the actual guide for the router As you lower the bit and after several passes around the inside of
the template, you will have an exact hole in the flooring for the inlay to be placed. Any mistakes made to
the inside of the template do not matter because the wood gets ripped out and the inlay takes its place.
The template itself prevents the router from moving beyond its shape so no damage can be done to the
flooring. It is a foolproof method.
There is an argument that a "one piece" template is better than the circle jig as far as getting a
precise pocket in the floor. If you feel this way just use the circle jig to make a "one piece"
template. Refer to the "Circle Jig" and "stick" template instructions for this. The benefit to the
circle jig is that the router can not(or very unlikely) jerk out of your hands while cutting the floor.
The router is fixed to the jig, which is fixed to the floor making the circle jig safer. Both methods
work, use what is best for you.
Installation of Hardwood Floor Medallion Inlays & Compass Roses
Above is a circle JIG used to make a pocket in the floor for a round medallion. The JIG can easily be made on
site with a piece of wood. It's hard to believe an installer can not do this and demand a template. If they do
demand a template they can use this JIG to make their own template custom for your project. The JIG can be
used again and again and it makes all different sizes of circles. The "one piece" templates are throw aways.
Every inlay is slightly different so the "one piece" template is no good to anyone else.
Templates are no longer included with the round or double square inlays, it adds to much to the shipping cost
and would prevent the FREE handling and shipping.
PLEASE do everything below in a scrap piece of plywood and test dry-fit the inlay into that plywood.
Accomplishing this will give you confidence to cut your new flooring! The self satisfaction from installing your own
inlay is great!You can do this!
First, set the inlay exactly where it is to be installed. Then, trace around the inlay with pencil onto the floor(pic3).
Next, nail in the jig dead center of the circle traced on to the floor(pic 2). With the router turned off, spin the
router around and lower the bit to just above the trace line. Make sure the outer edge of the bit facing away from
the center of the circle is in alignment with the traced line around the entire circle. The edge of the bit should just
touch the inside of the pencil line so a little of the line is left after routing.
Now raise the bit slightly and spin the jig out of the way, but leave it attached in its proper position. Drill a 3/4" or
bigger starter hole on the inside edge of the penciled circle. The hole should be drilled INSIDE the penciled circle
and just touching the line. If you drill beyond the pencil line there will be a small moon shaped gap after routing.
Line up the router bit over the hole drilled and turn on the router. Gently lower the router bit into the drilled hole
about 1/8" to 1/4" below the hardwood floor. Then spin the Router Jig in a COUNTERCLOCKWISE direction
slowly and cut a circle (pic 2). The cut should be following the pencil line, just barely eliminating the pencil line,
better yet, leaving about 1/2 the line. Drop the bit a little lower with each pass around the circle until the flooring
is cut through. Stop at the sub floor.
Pull off the JIG and the cut pieces of flooring and pop in the medallion in the pocket just cut. If it is a tight fit rub
around the inside of the pocket in the floor with sandpaper and/or sand around the edge of the medallion where
it is catching. If there is a gap 1/8" or less, that is acceptable. A nice 1/16" to 1/8" gap around the entire inlay
may help when the wood expands and contracts due to seasonal changes.
After test fitting the medallion pull out the inlay and get ready to glue. Spread the wood flooring adhesive with a
notched 1/8" trowel(or whatever the notch size the adhesive instructions call for) like you would thin-set(mortar)
in a tile floor install or use Bostik© 1100FS glue. It comes in a cartridge and is used with a caulk gun. I prefer
the trowel method, but this glue is awesome. You should use weight(concrete bags work) to set the Inlay into
the glue. AFTER the glue sets fill any gaps with a filler that matches the floor NOT the inlay.
If a one piece template is preferred just make it with the CIRCLE JIG(pic 2). If you practiced on a piece of
plywood you will have a one piece template to use already! Just switch to a router bit with a bearing on it and
take off the circle jig from the router. One piece templates are easily made using a Circle Jig. It is exactly how I
make the one piece templates. Just get a piece of plywood and cut the circle out with the circle jig(pic 2). Test fit
the inlay. If the fit is good use the plywood template and place it where you want it. Affix it to the floor and use a
router with a bearing on it. (The Circle Jig technique does not use a bearing on the router bit).Then cut clockwise
around the inside perimeter of the site made template. Refer to the next sections on "one piece" and "stick"
templates for more information on this technique.
NOTE* You must move the router clockwise if using the "One Piece" templates. The direction of the
router must be counterclockwise for the Circle jig. If you do not follow these directions the router
can climb and jerk out of your hands, potentially skipping across the floor damaging it or worse, the
loss of some fingers. Practice with the router, wear the safety glasses and read the router
instructions very carefully.
site with a piece of wood. It's hard to believe an installer can not do this and demand a template. If they do
demand a template they can use this JIG to make their own template custom for your project. The JIG can be
used again and again and it makes all different sizes of circles. The "one piece" templates are throw aways.
Every inlay is slightly different so the "one piece" template is no good to anyone else.
Templates are no longer included with the round or double square inlays, it adds to much to the shipping cost
and would prevent the FREE handling and shipping.
PLEASE do everything below in a scrap piece of plywood and test dry-fit the inlay into that plywood.
Accomplishing this will give you confidence to cut your new flooring! The self satisfaction from installing your own
inlay is great!You can do this!
First, set the inlay exactly where it is to be installed. Then, trace around the inlay with pencil onto the floor(pic3).
Next, nail in the jig dead center of the circle traced on to the floor(pic 2). With the router turned off, spin the
router around and lower the bit to just above the trace line. Make sure the outer edge of the bit facing away from
the center of the circle is in alignment with the traced line around the entire circle. The edge of the bit should just
touch the inside of the pencil line so a little of the line is left after routing.
Now raise the bit slightly and spin the jig out of the way, but leave it attached in its proper position. Drill a 3/4" or
bigger starter hole on the inside edge of the penciled circle. The hole should be drilled INSIDE the penciled circle
and just touching the line. If you drill beyond the pencil line there will be a small moon shaped gap after routing.
Line up the router bit over the hole drilled and turn on the router. Gently lower the router bit into the drilled hole
about 1/8" to 1/4" below the hardwood floor. Then spin the Router Jig in a COUNTERCLOCKWISE direction
slowly and cut a circle (pic 2). The cut should be following the pencil line, just barely eliminating the pencil line,
better yet, leaving about 1/2 the line. Drop the bit a little lower with each pass around the circle until the flooring
is cut through. Stop at the sub floor.
Pull off the JIG and the cut pieces of flooring and pop in the medallion in the pocket just cut. If it is a tight fit rub
around the inside of the pocket in the floor with sandpaper and/or sand around the edge of the medallion where
it is catching. If there is a gap 1/8" or less, that is acceptable. A nice 1/16" to 1/8" gap around the entire inlay
may help when the wood expands and contracts due to seasonal changes.
After test fitting the medallion pull out the inlay and get ready to glue. Spread the wood flooring adhesive with a
notched 1/8" trowel(or whatever the notch size the adhesive instructions call for) like you would thin-set(mortar)
in a tile floor install or use Bostik© 1100FS glue. It comes in a cartridge and is used with a caulk gun. I prefer
the trowel method, but this glue is awesome. You should use weight(concrete bags work) to set the Inlay into
the glue. AFTER the glue sets fill any gaps with a filler that matches the floor NOT the inlay.
If a one piece template is preferred just make it with the CIRCLE JIG(pic 2). If you practiced on a piece of
plywood you will have a one piece template to use already! Just switch to a router bit with a bearing on it and
take off the circle jig from the router. One piece templates are easily made using a Circle Jig. It is exactly how I
make the one piece templates. Just get a piece of plywood and cut the circle out with the circle jig(pic 2). Test fit
the inlay. If the fit is good use the plywood template and place it where you want it. Affix it to the floor and use a
router with a bearing on it. (The Circle Jig technique does not use a bearing on the router bit).Then cut clockwise
around the inside perimeter of the site made template. Refer to the next sections on "one piece" and "stick"
templates for more information on this technique.
NOTE* You must move the router clockwise if using the "One Piece" templates. The direction of the
router must be counterclockwise for the Circle jig. If you do not follow these directions the router
can climb and jerk out of your hands, potentially skipping across the floor damaging it or worse, the
loss of some fingers. Practice with the router, wear the safety glasses and read the router
instructions very carefully.
Store bought circle jig
One Piece shop made template
Shop made template with medallion
OVERVIEW OF INSTALLATION METHODS
Circle Jig
"One Piece" Template
"Stick" Template
The three pictures above show how a "stick template" is used to install a double square design. The
technique is the same as with the "one piece" template in that a router is run around the inside perimeter
of the template. Instead of being one piece, the stick template is assembled on site using several small
pieces. These inlays are all hand made so each edge of the inlay is ever so slightly different in shape.
Therefore the stick template pieces need to be individually cut for a proper fit. Number each edge of the
double square medallion. Then number each segment of the "stick template" as you cut the pieces to
correspond with the correct edge of the inlay.
On the smaller inlays the template pieces may be pre-glued into one piece(pic 9.1,13-14).
Once all the template "sticks" have been cut, numbered and dry fitted push each piece tightly against the
inlay while securing all the pieces to the floor using super sticky double sided tape and/or small nails.
Next, pull out the inlay and you have a perfectly made template. There is no way the template can be
wrong using this method. As long as each piece of the template is tight to the inlay and the template
pieces do not move when routing you will have a perfect pocket cut into your floor to glue in your new
medallion!(refer to pic 9.1)
Finally, slowly move the router clockwise around the inside perimeter of the template while pushing the
router tight to the template. Make sure the bearing(little wheel) on the router bit is touching the inside edge
of the template(pic 7). Drop the bit little by little while routing around the perimeter until the flooring is cut
through. Pull out the pieces in the center of the template. Test fit the inlay,THEN take off the template.
The pointed corners of the pocket just cut into the floor are going to be left round because of the round
router bit. Square out the corners of the pocket in the floor with a hand chisel or round off the edges of
the inlay, it is up to you. MAKE SURE THE INLAY FITS BEFORE TAKING OFF ALL THE LITTLE
PIECES OF THE STICK TEMPLATE SO YOU CAN GO BACK AND TOUCH UP EDGES IF NEEDED!
technique is the same as with the "one piece" template in that a router is run around the inside perimeter
of the template. Instead of being one piece, the stick template is assembled on site using several small
pieces. These inlays are all hand made so each edge of the inlay is ever so slightly different in shape.
Therefore the stick template pieces need to be individually cut for a proper fit. Number each edge of the
double square medallion. Then number each segment of the "stick template" as you cut the pieces to
correspond with the correct edge of the inlay.
On the smaller inlays the template pieces may be pre-glued into one piece(pic 9.1,13-14).
Once all the template "sticks" have been cut, numbered and dry fitted push each piece tightly against the
inlay while securing all the pieces to the floor using super sticky double sided tape and/or small nails.
Next, pull out the inlay and you have a perfectly made template. There is no way the template can be
wrong using this method. As long as each piece of the template is tight to the inlay and the template
pieces do not move when routing you will have a perfect pocket cut into your floor to glue in your new
medallion!(refer to pic 9.1)
Finally, slowly move the router clockwise around the inside perimeter of the template while pushing the
router tight to the template. Make sure the bearing(little wheel) on the router bit is touching the inside edge
of the template(pic 7). Drop the bit little by little while routing around the perimeter until the flooring is cut
through. Pull out the pieces in the center of the template. Test fit the inlay,THEN take off the template.
The pointed corners of the pocket just cut into the floor are going to be left round because of the round
router bit. Square out the corners of the pocket in the floor with a hand chisel or round off the edges of
the inlay, it is up to you. MAKE SURE THE INLAY FITS BEFORE TAKING OFF ALL THE LITTLE
PIECES OF THE STICK TEMPLATE SO YOU CAN GO BACK AND TOUCH UP EDGES IF NEEDED!
If you do not have a template for an inlay or just want to make your own template, it is simple to do. The
three pictures above show two client made "stick templates" going around two 16" mini stars. No matter
the size or straight edged shape, a template made on site with little scraps of wood(all the same thickness)
is usually all that is needed for a great install. A Hand or powered mitre box is the best way to cut the
pieces for a "stick template".
Remember, this is not a picture frame and if you can get away with no miter cuts take that route. The star
templates above have no miter cuts. For the octagon(pic 14) template the angled cuts were cut with a
power miter box. And again miters were not used. Click on Pic 14 and look closely at the template corners.
Nothing was measured, the wood pieces for the template were held up against the inlay and each
successive piece of the template, then scribed at each corner. The miter box was than adjusted to the
scribed line(who cares what the angle is). The angle is not going to be mathematically correct as these are
hand made and are ever so slightly off from being perfect angles. If all the seams are not tight it really does
not matter. As long as the path you create within the template is correct and the template pieces do not
move, you are good to go. In the mini star example double sticky tape and pre-drilled holes for little nails
are used to fix the inlay to the floor(pic 10). For those inexperienced with a saw step by step picture
instructions for measuring, scribing and cutting each piece of the stick template for both an Octagon and
Double Square medallion will be posted soon.
After cutting all the pieces, push them tight against the Inlay(pic 10-13), secure them to the floor and pull
out the inlay(pic 14). If preferred, glue can be used at the joints and after dry the template can be handled
as one piece as in Pic #14. Run the router around the inside edge of the template and drop the bit(with the
bearing) little by little on each successive pass until the flooring is cut through(pic 7). Pull out the pieces
that were cut within the template, test fit the inlay, THEN pull off the template piece. The pocket for the
inlay is made using your site made template!
three pictures above show two client made "stick templates" going around two 16" mini stars. No matter
the size or straight edged shape, a template made on site with little scraps of wood(all the same thickness)
is usually all that is needed for a great install. A Hand or powered mitre box is the best way to cut the
pieces for a "stick template".
Remember, this is not a picture frame and if you can get away with no miter cuts take that route. The star
templates above have no miter cuts. For the octagon(pic 14) template the angled cuts were cut with a
power miter box. And again miters were not used. Click on Pic 14 and look closely at the template corners.
Nothing was measured, the wood pieces for the template were held up against the inlay and each
successive piece of the template, then scribed at each corner. The miter box was than adjusted to the
scribed line(who cares what the angle is). The angle is not going to be mathematically correct as these are
hand made and are ever so slightly off from being perfect angles. If all the seams are not tight it really does
not matter. As long as the path you create within the template is correct and the template pieces do not
move, you are good to go. In the mini star example double sticky tape and pre-drilled holes for little nails
are used to fix the inlay to the floor(pic 10). For those inexperienced with a saw step by step picture
instructions for measuring, scribing and cutting each piece of the stick template for both an Octagon and
Double Square medallion will be posted soon.
After cutting all the pieces, push them tight against the Inlay(pic 10-13), secure them to the floor and pull
out the inlay(pic 14). If preferred, glue can be used at the joints and after dry the template can be handled
as one piece as in Pic #14. Run the router around the inside edge of the template and drop the bit(with the
bearing) little by little on each successive pass until the flooring is cut through(pic 7). Pull out the pieces
that were cut within the template, test fit the inlay, THEN pull off the template piece. The pocket for the
inlay is made using your site made template!
Another "stick template" being used
for a 23" octagon inlay. Perfect fit!
for a 23" octagon inlay. Perfect fit!
If using a "one piece" template and the inlay
is on hand when the new floor is going down,
some flooring can be left out. Do not leave
out flooring if using the circle jig
is on hand when the new floor is going down,
some flooring can be left out. Do not leave
out flooring if using the circle jig
If installing a new floor leave out nails and
glue several inches to either side of the trace
line. If a new floor is being put in remind the
installer of this trace line before they nail
down the flooring! For the initial floor
installation do not leave any flooring out if
using a circle jig. It's OK to leave out some
flooring if using a "one piece" template.
glue several inches to either side of the trace
line. If a new floor is being put in remind the
installer of this trace line before they nail
down the flooring! For the initial floor
installation do not leave any flooring out if
using a circle jig. It's OK to leave out some
flooring if using a "one piece" template.
MDF makes a nice template. This
was edge glued at the angle seams
and stuck to the floor as one piece.
was edge glued at the angle seams
and stuck to the floor as one piece.
In many cases the builder and decorator may not know much about floor inlay installation and rely on the installers they use
for information. Every installer should make it a point to read up on and practice installing each type of inlay before they start
cutting into a floor. It is nice for a client to know about the install procedure also. Many times the installer has never put in a
medallion. A "dry run" on a piece of scrap plywood is advisable, especially if this is a first time project for the installer.
The install techniques shown below are based on my personal experience. I have previously installed all types of floors from
laminate and engineered to vinyl, ceramic tile, stone and of course my favorite 3/4" hardwood. I am not only a floor installer,
but an inlay specialist. This is my job and my specialty so I stand by what I say. I have over 150 inlays installed in all flooring
types(tile,carpet,stone,wood,etc) under my belt. Most floor installers may have put down one or two inlays and more than
likely have never made a medallion. So feel free to ask me what, where, when or how to install a floor medallion.
FLOOR MEDALLIONS DO NOT HAVE TO BE INSTALLED AT THE SAME TIME AS A NEW HARDWOOD FLOOR! The
inlay gets cut in after the floor is down. With so many pre-finished floors being laid it is standard practice to install the inlays
in a finished floor. If it were true that all inlays needed to be "sanded in"(installed after the floor is down, but before final
sanding and finishing) then no one with a pre-finished floor would be able to have an inlay. It is nice to "sand in" the inlay, but
delaying the project is unnecessary. An install on a finished floor just requires patience and some forethought of nail
placement while installing the floor in the area the inlay is to go(pic 3). So even though I do suggest "sanding in" the
medallion if the floor type and time allow, it is NO WAY REQUIRED to have the inlay before the new floor is down!
Some web sites state that only a professional should install floor medallions, NO WAY, any handy homeowner can install an
inlay in a few hours, max! In many cases the homeowners put in the inlay after the floor guys leave and the install comes out
perfect. 25% of these inlays go to people with existing floors that are already finished and more than 25% go to people with
newly installed pre-finished floors. The client finishes the inlay, cuts the hole in the floor and glues the medallion down. Then
uses a small amount of matching filler around the inlay in the expansion gap of about 1/16" around the perimeter.
This page explains different ways to install a hardwood floor medallion inlay using the circle jig, "one piece" template and the
"stick" template. I will also include an advanced area for free form and oval medallions. I will add to this page little by little as I
am able and I will take suggestions anytime email to: majesticmedallions@comcast.net This page is a work in progress!
The following instructions are opinions and posted as help only, they are not definitive in any way and info may
change. Use this information at your own risk. Read the owners manual of your tool carefully and follow those
instructions if they differ from these. Use safety precautions and wear safety glasses. Good luck!
for information. Every installer should make it a point to read up on and practice installing each type of inlay before they start
cutting into a floor. It is nice for a client to know about the install procedure also. Many times the installer has never put in a
medallion. A "dry run" on a piece of scrap plywood is advisable, especially if this is a first time project for the installer.
The install techniques shown below are based on my personal experience. I have previously installed all types of floors from
laminate and engineered to vinyl, ceramic tile, stone and of course my favorite 3/4" hardwood. I am not only a floor installer,
but an inlay specialist. This is my job and my specialty so I stand by what I say. I have over 150 inlays installed in all flooring
types(tile,carpet,stone,wood,etc) under my belt. Most floor installers may have put down one or two inlays and more than
likely have never made a medallion. So feel free to ask me what, where, when or how to install a floor medallion.
FLOOR MEDALLIONS DO NOT HAVE TO BE INSTALLED AT THE SAME TIME AS A NEW HARDWOOD FLOOR! The
inlay gets cut in after the floor is down. With so many pre-finished floors being laid it is standard practice to install the inlays
in a finished floor. If it were true that all inlays needed to be "sanded in"(installed after the floor is down, but before final
sanding and finishing) then no one with a pre-finished floor would be able to have an inlay. It is nice to "sand in" the inlay, but
delaying the project is unnecessary. An install on a finished floor just requires patience and some forethought of nail
placement while installing the floor in the area the inlay is to go(pic 3). So even though I do suggest "sanding in" the
medallion if the floor type and time allow, it is NO WAY REQUIRED to have the inlay before the new floor is down!
Some web sites state that only a professional should install floor medallions, NO WAY, any handy homeowner can install an
inlay in a few hours, max! In many cases the homeowners put in the inlay after the floor guys leave and the install comes out
perfect. 25% of these inlays go to people with existing floors that are already finished and more than 25% go to people with
newly installed pre-finished floors. The client finishes the inlay, cuts the hole in the floor and glues the medallion down. Then
uses a small amount of matching filler around the inlay in the expansion gap of about 1/16" around the perimeter.
This page explains different ways to install a hardwood floor medallion inlay using the circle jig, "one piece" template and the
"stick" template. I will also include an advanced area for free form and oval medallions. I will add to this page little by little as I
am able and I will take suggestions anytime email to: majesticmedallions@comcast.net This page is a work in progress!
The following instructions are opinions and posted as help only, they are not definitive in any way and info may
change. Use this information at your own risk. Read the owners manual of your tool carefully and follow those
instructions if they differ from these. Use safety precautions and wear safety glasses. Good luck!
Pic 3
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I do not include one piece template for simple circle inlays. A round floor medallion is simple to install without a store bought or shop made
template or jig. For a round medallion a CIRCLE JIG made on site with one piece of wood and a router can be used to cut the floor pocket. A "stick"
template is used for straight edged(octagon,double square,etc) designs and should be made from small scraps on site or the pieces provided with the
inlay. If required the wood necessary for the CIRCLE JIG or "stick" template that each Inlay calls for will be included with every purchase.
Below it shows how to use a trammel to make a one piece template if you prefer that instead of using the trammel directly on the floor.
PLEASE READ ALL SECTIONS BEFORE STARTING, EVEN IF IT IS KNOWN WHICH INSTALL TECHNIQUE IS GOING TO BE USED.
template or jig. For a round medallion a CIRCLE JIG made on site with one piece of wood and a router can be used to cut the floor pocket. A "stick"
template is used for straight edged(octagon,double square,etc) designs and should be made from small scraps on site or the pieces provided with the
inlay. If required the wood necessary for the CIRCLE JIG or "stick" template that each Inlay calls for will be included with every purchase.
Below it shows how to use a trammel to make a one piece template if you prefer that instead of using the trammel directly on the floor.
PLEASE READ ALL SECTIONS BEFORE STARTING, EVEN IF IT IS KNOWN WHICH INSTALL TECHNIQUE IS GOING TO BE USED.
View of how the flush cut router bit works
for both one piece and stick templates
for both one piece and stick templates
Pic 4
Pic 5
Pic 6
Pic 7
Pic 8
Pic 9
Pic 9.1
Pic 10
Pic 11
Pic 12
Pic 13
Pic 14
Pic 7
Click to enlarge
Majestic Medallions is not responsible for any damage incurred to property or someones person from following these instructions or if
there are any errors in the instructions. These are opinions and posted as help only, they are not definitive in any way and info may
change. Use this information at your own risk. Read the owners manual of your tool carefully and follow those instructions if they differ
from these. Use safety precautions and wear safety glasses. Practice first time use of tools on something other than your new floor. If
you take it slow and understand 100% what you are doing you will have a gorgeous floor inlay!
It is understood all inlays are hand made and the sizes are nominal and the size may vary by 1.25 inches at most in either direction.
there are any errors in the instructions. These are opinions and posted as help only, they are not definitive in any way and info may
change. Use this information at your own risk. Read the owners manual of your tool carefully and follow those instructions if they differ
from these. Use safety precautions and wear safety glasses. Practice first time use of tools on something other than your new floor. If
you take it slow and understand 100% what you are doing you will have a gorgeous floor inlay!
It is understood all inlays are hand made and the sizes are nominal and the size may vary by 1.25 inches at most in either direction.
Making a Stick Template
This section is not complete
This section is not complete
MORE TO COME
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| Majestic Medallions and Inlays 10214 Saddlebred Trail, Woodstock IL 60098 - 815-206-5891 MajesticMedallions@comcast.net |
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| Majestic Medallions and Inlays "Hardwood Inlays for any Application" 10214 Saddlebred Trail, Woodstock IL 60098 - 815-206-5891 inlays@MajesticMedallions.com |